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Nakshi Kantha or embroidered quilt is a folk art of Bangladesh and West Bengal, India that has been passed down through generations.[1] The art has been flourishing in rural Bengal for centuries.[2] The name nakshi kantha became particularly popular among literate people after the publicaton of Jasimuddin's poem Naksi Kanthar Math (1929).[3] By far the most renowned embroidery of Bangladesh is the Nakshi Kantha. Immersed in ritual and social custom this “enchanted wrap” is an exquisite art where the basic material used is thread and old cloth.[4] The art of kantha furnishes an illustration of the wonderful patience, craftsmanship and resourcefulness of the village woman.[5] Kanthas are made throughout Bangladesh; but greater Mymensingh, Rajshahi, Faridpur and Jessore areas are most famous for this craft.[6] The colourful patterns and designs that are embroidered resulted in the name “Nakshi Kantha”- derived from the Bengali word “naksha” which refers to artistic patterns.[7] The early kanthas were of white ground reinforced with red, blue and black embroidery; later yellow, green, pink and other colours were also included. The running stitch called kantha stitch is the main stitch used for the purpose.[8] Traditionally kantha used to be produced for the use of the family. Today after the revival of the nakshi kantha these are produced commercially and have gained popularity. [edit] EtymologyThe word kantha has no satisfactory etymological root.[9] The exact time of origin of kantha is not accurately known but it probably had a precursor in kheta (khet in Hindi and Bangla means "field").[10] According to Niaz Zaman the word kantha originated from Sanskrit word kontha meaning rags as kantha is made of rags.[11] [edit] The Kantha TraditionLike any other folk art kantha making is influenenced by the factors like materials available, daily needs, climate, geography, economic factors.[12] Probably the earliest form of kantha was the patch work kantha and the kanthas of decorative applique type evolved from this.[13] [edit] Kantha in LiteratureThe earliest mention of Bengal Kantha is found in the book, "Sri Sri Chaitanya Charitamrita" by Krishnadas Kaviraj which was written some five hundred years back.[14] [edit] Kantha MakingTraditionally old saree, lungi and dhoti were used to make kantha. Kantha making was not a full time job and women of almost every household were expert in the art. Rural women worked at leasure time or during the lazy days of rainy season, thus taking months or even years to finish a kantha was normal. At least 5/7 sarees were needed to make a standard size kantha. Today the old materials are replaced by new cotton cloths. Traditionally the thread was collected from the old sarees which is rarely in practise today. When making a kantha first the sharees are joined together to attain the required size and then layers are spread on the ground. The cloths are smoothed leaving no folds or creases in between. During the process the cloth is kept flat on the ground with weights on the edges. Then the four edges are stitched and two or three rows of large running stitches are done to keep the kantha together. At this stage the kantha can be folded and stitched at leisure time. Originally designs and motifs were not drawn on the cloth. The design was first outlined with needle and thread followed by focal points and then the filling motifs were done. In a kantha with a predominant central motif the centre was done first, followed by corner designs and the other details. In some types of kanthas (carpet, lik and sujni, etc) wooden blocks were used to print the outline. The blocks are replaced today by patterns drawn in tracing papers. [edit] Different Types of KanthaNiaz Zaman in her book The Art of KANTHA Embroidery classified the kanthas in following categories according to the stitch employed: Running Stitch kantha: Running stitch kantha is truly the indigenous kantha. They are subdevided into Nakshi or figured and par tola or patterned. Nakshi or figured kanthas are again divided into motif kantha or scenic ones. Lohori Kantha: The name derived from Persian word ‘lehr’ meaning meaning wave. This kantha is particularly popular in Rajshahi. These kanthas are further divided into soja (straight or simple) kantha, Kautar khupi (pegion coop or triangle), borfi or diamond (charchala, atchala or barachala etc). Lik or Anarasi (pine apple) Kantha: Found in Chapainawabgonj and Jessore area. The variations are lik tan, lik tile, lik jhumka, lik lohori. Cross Stitch or Carpet Kantha: This kantha was introduced by the English during the British Rule in India.[15] The stitch employed in these kanthas are cross stitch. Sujni Kantha: This kantha is Found only in Rajshahi area.The popular motif used is undulating floral and vine motif. [edit] Influence of Religion and Folk Belief[edit] Kantha StitchesThe earliest and most basic stitch found in kanthas is the running stitch. The predominant form of this stitch is called kantha the phor or kantha stitch.[16] The other form of stitches used are Chatai or pattern darning, Kaitya or bending stitch, weave running stitch darning, Jessore stitch(a variation of darning stitch), threaded running stitch, Lik phor or anarasi or ghar hasia (Holbein stitch). The stitches used in modern day kantha are the Kasmiri stitch and the arrow head. Stitches like herring bone, satin stitch, back stitch and cross stitch are occasionally used[17] [edit] Various ArticlesKanthas generally denote quilts used as wrappers; all articles made by quilting old cloth may also be referred to by the same generic name. However, depending on the size and purpose kanthas may be divided into various articles, each with its specific names. The various articles of kantha are as follows:[18]
[edit] MotifsMotifs of the nakshi kantha are deeply influenced by religious belief and culture. Even though no specific strict symmetry is followed a finely embroidered naksi kantha will always have a focal point. Most kanthas will have a lotus as focal point, around the lotus there are undulating vines or floral motifs or shari border motifs. The motifs may include images of flower and leaves, birds and fish, animals, kithen forms even toilet articles. While most kantas have some initial pattern, no two naksi kantas are same. Traditionals motifs are repeated, the individualtouch in variety of stitches, colours and shapes. The notabale motifs found in naksi kantha are as follows: [edit] The Lotus MotifLotus motif is the most common motif found in kanthas. This motif is associated with Hindu iconography and thus is also very popular in the kantha. Lotus is the devine seat, it is also symbolic of cosmic harmony and essential womanhood. Lotus is the symbol of eternal order, of the union earth water and sky. It represents the life giving power of water but is also associated with the sun for the opening and closing of the petals. It is also the symbol of recreating power of life. With the drying up of water the lotus dies and with the rain it springs to life again. Lotus is associated with purity and the goddess Laksmi, the goddess of good fortune and abundance. There are various forms of lotus motifs like eight-petalled astadal padma to the hundred petalled satadal. In the older kanthas the central motif is almost always a fully bloomed lotus seen from above. [edit] The Solar MotifThe solar motif ic closely associated with the lotus motif. Often the lotus and the solar motifs are found together at in the centre of a nakshi kantha. The solar motif symbolizes the life giving power of the sun. The sun is associated with the fire which plays a significant part in Hindu rites, religious and matrimonial. [edit] The Moon MotifThe moon motif has a religious influence and is popular amongst the Muslims. Mostly it is in the form of crescent accompanied by a star. The motif is particularly found in jainamaz kanthas. [edit] The Wheel MotifThe wheel is a common symbol in Indian art, both Hindu and buddhist. It is the symbol of order and order. The wheel also represents the world. The wheel is a popular motif in kanthas even when the maker has forgotten the significance of the symbol. The motif is relatively easy to make with chatai phor. [edit] The Swastika MotifSu asti in Sanskrit means it is well. As a motif in Indian art it dates back to Indus Valley civilization. It is symbol of good fortune. It is also known as muchri or golok dhanda. With the passage of time the design is more curvilinear than the four armed swastika of the Mohenjodaro seal. The synmbolic design has significant influence in Hinduism, Buddhism, and Jainism. [edit] The Tree of Life MotifThe influence of this motif in Indian Art and Culture (as with kantha) may be traced back to Indus Valley civilization. It is likely that the Indus people conceived the pipal as the Tree of Life...with the devata inside embodying the power of fecundity.[19] During the Buddhist times the cult of tree continued. Pipal is sacred to the Buddha because he received enlightenment under its shade. It reflects the fecundity of nature and is very popular in Bengal. Vines and Creepers play an important role in kanthas and they contain the same symbolisation as that of tree of life. A popular motif in Rajshahi lohori is betel leaf. [edit] The Kalka MotifThis is a latter day motif, dating from Mughal times.[20] Kalka or paisley motif originated in Persia and Kashmir and has become an integral image of the subcontinental decorative motif.[21] It can be compared with a stylized leaf,mango or flame. The kalka is an attractive motif and number of varieties are experimented. Similar motifs can be found in traditional kashmiri Shawls.
[edit] BordersMost nakshi kanthas have some kind border either a sari border is stitched on or a border pattern is embridered around kantha. The common border found in kanthas are as follows:[22]
[edit] Kanthas of Different Areas[edit] Modern day kantha[edit] Kantha Collections[edit] Bangladesh
[edit] India
[edit] Organizations which make Nakshi Kantha
[edit] References
[edit] External links
[edit] Further reading
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