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Hanfu movement (simplified Chinese: 汉服运动; traditional Chinese: 漢服運動), or the Hanfu subculture, is a movement created in China to reintroduce into modern life the traditional Han Chinese clothing styles that were banned by the Manchu Qing Dynasty (1644-1912).

[edit] History

Wang Letian wearing the first version of Hanfu that was made for him in the streets of China. He is generally recognised as the first person to wear Hanfu publicly as a form of proper dress in the modern era.

According to the Asia Times Online, the Hanfu movement may have begun around 2003 when a man called Wang Letian from Zhengzhou, China, wore Hanfu in public ^[1]. This inspired others to do the same and the Hanfu movement grew out of forums created initially about Hanfu, which later covered the cultural identity of China. Since the start of the movement, there has been public interest in Hanfu as well as debates about it.

Major activities that Hanfu enthusiasts part-take include holding Guan Lis and Ji Li's (the Chinese equivalent of the coming of age ceremony) and other formal traditional ceremonies of the past, wearing Hanfu in public places (especially at festivals) and making their own Hanfu. There is a more deeper meaning and goal to the Hanfu movement than just pure dressing up, going with the trend or exercising one's individuality. The main premise of the Hanfu movement is to get to a stage where Hanfu becomes an accepted part of clothing that can be worn without the need to justify to others for wearing it as well as reviving cultural traditions.

[edit] Debates

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The Hanfu movement has aroused some debates.

[edit] The exact definition of "Hanfu"

Throughout China's long history, the clothing of the Han people has undergone many changes. The costumes of each dynasty is different, reflecting the values and interests of each period. It was not until the Qing Dynasty that the Hanfu became integrated with the costume of Manchu. Though many believe the Qipao or Cheongsam is China's national costume, this is relatively inaccurate as, considering China's thousands of years of history, the qipao is fairly modern.

[edit] To revive or not to revive

Some people believe that the disappearance of the Hanfu is not abnormal. Nowadays, many feel that the Hanfu is no longer relevant or convenient, and has been consigned to China's historical culture.

There are those who believe that every ethnic group's costume is important and a valuable development and piece of the past, embodying the culture and traditions of that group. Hanfu is the traditional costume of the Han Chinese, so it is representative of the nation's traditional culture. The Chinese people are becoming more aware of this connection between themselves and their ancient culture. The practice of wearing Hanfu has also had the benefit of development and propagation of the traditional culture of China.

[edit] Complete restoration?

Some think it is important for certain occasions. One can wear Hanfu for holidays, festivals, weddings, birth parties, funerals or even as regular clothing. Those who believe that wearing Hanfu is inconvenient can continue wearing modern clothing. There are also those who believe that national costumes can become the standard ideal of clothing in special occasions and dates. Example of this include Japan and Korea where their national costumes (kimono and Hanbok respectively) do not completely dominate everyday clothing, yet make appearances during national festivals. Some even suggest modifying Hanfu to make it more appropriate for everyday clothing. As the predecessor of the kimono and hanbok, the Hanfu is surprisingly unknown to the rest of the world.

But like many other national costumes, Hanfu has a formal, more heavy and elaborate form for certain occasions (like the Western white tie or tuxedo), and an informal, light and easy to wear form which is more convenient to wear everyday. So completely reviving Hanfu is not as inconvenient as any other national costume.

However, there may be practical concern for complete Hanfu restoration. In parts of Han dynasty, the pants people wear (if any) did not cover the crotch, so sitting with splitting legs would be regarded as extremely rude.^[2]

[edit] Whether the Tangzhuang can fully represent the Han nationality

Some believe that the Tangzhuang (i.e. Qipao and Cheongsam) has had a tremendous influence overseas and that many foreigners recognise them as the de facto Chinese costume and that Hanfu does not share the same influence or recognition in today's environment.

[edit] Criticism

Many Hanfu advocates argue that making Hanfu a national dress could unite the country, creating a cultural symbol for the country and creating a tradition for future generations.^[3] However, critics of the movement fear that the revival leans too far in the direction of a narrow nationalism, focused on looks rather than content.^[4] They fear that a blanket dismissal of non-Hanfu dress could lead a step further, towards a rejection of the West that goes beyond clothing matters.

While many Hanfu enthusiasts advocate Hanfu as a national dress, critics see this as an internal problem, as Hanfu is the traditional dress of the Han people. Hanfu as a national dress would fail to represent the other 55 ethnicities of China.^[5] Of course, Manchu influenced Qiapos currently associated with Chinese clothing would also fail to represent the other 55 ethnic groups.

[edit] Historical relevence

Many feel that Hanfu is out-dated and old fashioned. A similar example is why people in the West do not wear period costume (British people do not wear costumes of Elizabethan times in everyday life) and since Hanfu is theoretically a 'period costume', it is unsuitable for wear in a modern progressive society. However, since it has been worn for the majority of Chinese history, it would not be considered a "period costume." In fact, the use of the Qipao is relatively recent, and would classify as a period costume.

The sudden change in Chinese clothing from traditional Han-style to strong Manchurian and Western influences has caused confusion as to the idea of what China's national costume is. Hanfu's development halted in the 17th century due to government sanctions by the Manchurian Qing government, so the Hanfu has been placed in a situation that other national costumes have had the fortune not to experience. Technically, Hanfu is a costume not through natural development but through a forced change.

There is also debate as to whether Hanfu is just a fashion-fad or a form of Romanticism for the past rather than anything of modern relevance.

[edit] Recent developments

In February 2007, a proposal to use Hanfu for the official clothing of for the Chinese 2008 Summer Olympics was submitted to the Chinese Olympic Committee ^[6]. After considering the proposal and debating on what should be the official clothing, the Chinese Olympic Committee rejected the proposal in April.^[7]

[edit] Notes

[edit] External links

• Hanfu Review An English Blog with Hanfu movement news archive
• Hanfu Union (Chinese)
• The Han Net (Chinese)
• Toronto Association for the Revival of Hanfu (Chinese)
• Good Samples of Chinese Hanfu
• 開講天下 Television debate on whether the Western suit, Tangzhuang or Hanfu is to be appropriate for the Chinese Olympics. part 1, part 2, part 3 (Chinese)
• The Great Movement of Restoring Authentic Chinese Clothing
• 2006年 中國政府正式認可漢服是漢民族的傳統民族服裝—的始末(Chinese)
• 為何要復興 漢民族 傳統民族服裝 ——漢服 ？(Chinese)
• “唐裝, 旗袍”的歷史 引發 中國民間 第二次保衛 漢服運動(Chinese)
• 漢民族在 國內的 尊嚴：什麼時候起,你察覺到 漢民族因沒有了民族服飾而 喪失 民族尊嚴 的尷尬?(Chinese)