Costume jewelry (also called fashion jewelry, junk jewelry, fake jewelry, or fallalery) is the first jewelry (jewellery) manufactured as ornamentation for the masses to complement a particular fashionable garment or "costume".^[2] Costume jewelry came into being in the 1930s as a cheap, disposable accessory meant to be worn with a specific outfit. It was intended to be fashionable for a short period of time, outdate itself, and then be repurchased to fit with a new outfit or new fashion style.^[3] Its main use is in fashion, as opposed to "real" (fine) jewelry which may be regarded primarily as collectibles, keepsakes, or investments. Costume jewelry is made of less valuable materials including base metals, glass, plastic, and synthetic stones; in place of more valuable materials such as precious metals and gems.

Contents 1 Etymology 2 Components 3 Historical expression 3.1 Art Deco period (1920–1930s) 3.2 Retro period (1935 to 1950) 3.3 Art Modern period (1945 to 1960) 4 General history 5 References

[edit] Etymology

The term costume jewelry dates back to the early twentieth century. It reflects the use of the word "costume" to refer to what is now called an "outfit"; for example, a "handsome street costume of maroon brown velvet". Costume jewelry is meant to complement a particular fashionable garment or "costume"; Hence the name, "costume jewelry".^[2]

[edit] Components

Originally, costume or fashion jewelry was made of inexpensive simulated gemstones, such as rhinestones or lucite, set in pewter,silver, nickel or brass. During the depression years, rhinestones were even down-graded by some manufacturers to meet the cost of production.^[2] Modern costume jewelry incorporates a wide range of materials. High end crystals, cubic zirconia simulated diamonds, and some semi-precious stones are used in place of precious stones. Metals include gold- or silver-plated brass, and sometimes vermeil or sterling silver. Lower-priced jewelry may still use gold plating over pewter, nickel or other metals; items made in countries outside the United States may contain lead. Some pieces incorporate plastic, acrylic, leather or wood.

[edit] Historical expression

Costume jewelry can be characterized by the period in history in which it was made.

[edit] Art Deco period (1920–1930s)

The Art Deco movement was an attempt to combine the harshness of mass production with the sensitivity of art and design. It was during this period that Coco Chanel introduced costume jewelry to complete the costume. The Art Deco movement died with the onset of the Great Depression and the outbreak of World War II.^[4]

According to Schiffer, some of the characteristics of the costume jewelry in the Art Deco period were:^[5]

• Free-flowing curves were replaced with a harshly geometric and symmetrical theme
• Long pendants, bangle bracelets, cocktail rings, and elaborate accessory items such as cigarette cases and holders

[edit] Retro period (1935 to 1950)

In the Retro period, designers struggled with the art versus mass production dilemma. Natural materials merged with plastics. Jewelry featured produced American-made jewelry that took on the American look. With the war in Europe, many European jewelry firms were shut down and several designers immigrated to the U.S. Europe was in a deep depression and the U.S. was enjoying an economic recovery.^[6]

According to Schiffer, some of the characteristics of the costume jewelry in the Retro period were:^[5]

• Glamour, elegance, and sophistication
• Flowers, bows, and sunburst designs with a Hollywood flair
• Moonstones, horse motifs, military influence, and ballerinas
• Bakelite and other plastic jewelry

[edit] Art Modern period (1945 to 1960)

In the Art Modern period following World War II, jewelry designs became more traditional and understated. The big, bold styles of the Retro period went out of style and were replaced by the more tailored styles of the 1950s and 60s.^[2]

According to Schiffer, some of the characteristics of the costume jewelry in the Art Modern period were:^[5]

• Bold, lavish jewelry
• Large, chunky bracelets, charm bracelets, Jade/opal, charm bracelets, citrine, topaz
• Poodle pins, Christmas tree pins, and other Christmas jewelry
• Rhinestones

[edit] General history

Costume jewelry has been part of culture for almost 300 years. During the 1700s cheap jewelry made with glass started getting made. After almost a century, in the 1800s, costume jewelry made of semi precious material came into the market. The use of semi precious material made the jewelry available in the hands of the common people.^[5]

But the real golden era for the costume jewelry began in the middle of the twentieth century. The new middle class desired to own beautiful but affordable jewelry, and this desire was realized by its perfect timing: it came during the machine-age and the industrial revolution. All this made possible the production of carefully executed replicas of beautiful and admired heirloom pieces.^[2]

As the class structure in America changed, so did measures of real wealth. Women in all social stations, even the working-class woman, could own a small piece of costume jewelry. The average town and country woman could acquire and wear a considerable amount of this mass-produced jewelry that was both affordable and stylish.^[5]

Many feel that the machine has spoilt the beauty of the hand-made costume jewelry; the truth is that the machine has made fashion jewelry more affordable and has enabled people to produce enough of this jewelry to fuel the interest of millions of ladies from all around the world.^[7]

Costume jewelry was further made popular by various designers in the mid twentieth century. Some of the most remembered names in costume jewelry include both the high and low priced brands: Crown Trifari, Dior, Chanel, Monet, Napier, Corocraft and Coventry.^[2]

A significant factor in the popularisation of costume jewellery was the Hollywood movie. The leading female stars of the '40s and '50s often wore and then endorsed the pieces produced by a range of designers. If you admired a necklace worn by Bette Davis in The Private Lives of Elizabeth and Essex, you could buy a copy from Joseff of Hollywood, who made the original. Stars such as Vivien Leigh, Elizabeth Taylor and Jane Russell appeared in adverts for the pieces and the availability of the collections in shops such as Woolworths made it possible for ordinary women to own and wear such jewellery.^[8]

Coco Chanel greatly popularized the use of faux jewelry in her years as a fashion designer, bringing costume jewelry to life with gold and faux pearls. Kenneth Jay Lane has since the 1960s been known for creating unique pieces for Jackie Onassis, Elizabeth Taylor, Diana Vreeland, and Audrey Hepburn. He is probably best-known for his three-strand faux pearl necklace worn by Barbara Bush to her husband's inaugural ball.

In many instances, high-end fashion jewelry has achieved a "collectible" status, and increases in value over time. Today, there is a substantial secondary market for vintage fashion jewelry. The main collecting market is for 'signed pieces', that is pieces which have the maker's mark, usually stamped on the reverse. Amongst the most sought after are Miriam Haskell, Coro, Crown Trifari and Sphinx. However, there is also demand for good quality 'unsigned' pieces, especially if they are of an unusual design.^[9]

[edit] References

1. ^ Bijoux is French for "jewels".
2. ^ ^{a b c d e f} Baker, Lillian. Fifty Years of Collectable Fashion Jewelry. Paducah: Collector Books, 1986.
3. ^ Klingenburg, Rena. "History of Costume Jewelery." Home Jewelry Business Success Tips. 2005. Sherry Matsen.
4. ^ "The Art Deco Movement: Technology and Geometry Combined with Modern Art." 2005. Empty Easel.
5. ^ ^{a b c d e} Schiffer, Nancy. The Best of Costume Jewelry. Atglen: Schiffer Publishing, 1999.
6. ^ Arlecchino. "Retro Jewelry." Art Retro Jewelry. 2007. Studio Soft.
7. ^ Miller, Martha. "A Loose History of Fashion Jewelry." 2007. MJE Sales.
8. ^ See Tanenbaum, C. (2006) Fabulous Fakes: A Passion for Vintage Costume Jewelry, ISBN 13: 9781579652920
9. ^ Miller, J. (2007) Costume Jewellery, ISBN 1405318120