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A Bearded Dragon is one of seven species of agamid lizards in the genus Pogona found in zoos and private collections. Pogona describes seven species found across Australia, some of which are bred and sold as pets.

The Wikibook Animal Care has a page on the topic of Bearded Dragon

Bearded Dragons are popular exotic pets, most commonly Pogona vitticeps, the Inland or Central Bearded Dragon. They are a popular species among children, because of their friendly and calm nature, along with the relative ease of caring for them.^{[citation needed]} Most Bearded Dragons in captivity have broad triangular heads and flattened bodies, with adults reaching approximately 16 to 22 inches (410 to 560 mm) from head to tail and weighing 350 to 600 grams (10 to 20 oz).^[1]

Contents 1 Sexual dimorphism 2 Diet 2.1 Poisonous and dangerous foods 3 Housing 4 Light and heat 5 Handling 6 Illnesses 7 References 8 External links

[edit] Sexual dimorphism

Males have a distinct set of pre-anal pores between the back legs and have hemipenal bulges at the vent area. Females lack both the pores and bulges. The pores are easy to see by looking at the dragon's underside.Unfortunately, Bearded Dragons do not like to be turned over. With its tail vertical it is easier to see the two bulges formed by the hemipenes on the males. Females do not have the two bulges or the indentation between the lumps. Females instead have one small broad lump that is closer to the vent. Males and females are of comparable size, although males usually sport a larger head and a thicker tail base than the females. Mature males will turn their throat pouches black during courtship to signal dominance,^[2] although females have also been known to do the same.

[edit] Diet

Many Bearded Dragons have native habitats that are dry and sparsely vegetated, so food may often be difficult to find in the wild. As a result, Bearded Dragons are omnivorous, capable of subsisting on a wide variety of food sources. A typical diet for captive Bearded Dragons includes leafy greens and vegetables,and regular meals of feeder insects, with crickets being their main insect matter, or 'morio' worms (giant mealworms) although the chitin on mealworms are harder to digest than most other worms, superworms, waxworms, butterworms, pheonix worms,e and basically any other type of worm^{[citation needed]}.

Their stomachs are large enough to accommodate large quantities of food. Young Bearded Dragons do not eat as much vegetation as their adult counterparts. As a Bearded Dragon ages it may be persuaded to eat less animal matter and more plants, maybe leveling off at around an 80% plant and 20% animal diet.^[3]

Popular feeder insects include Superworms, crickets, roaches, locusts, silkworms, hornworms, butterworms, and phoenix worms.^[4] The mealworm has a fairly hard chitin and is generally low in the "meat to chitin" ratio, as well as having poor calcium/phosphorus content, making it far less nutritious than other feeder insects.^[5] Chitin is hard enough that large amounts of it may cause impaction in the Bearded Dragon's digestion system and can lead to death, especially in younger and smaller animals. Waxworms and superworms can be given as a treat, but sparingly as in most cases as they are extremely fatty, and in some cases very addictive, although they can be useful in building up an undernourished animal. The rule of thumb on feeder insects is that the food must not be larger than the space between the animal's eyes; feeding something larger could make it hard for the animal to swallow the food and can lead to fatal impaction.^[6]

A significant portion of the Bearded Dragon's diet consists of leafy greens. Dragons enjoy many types of readily available greens, including: collard greens, spring greens, escarole, turnip greens, mustard greens, dandelion greens, parsley, and carrot tops.^[7] It is also recommended that this portion of the animal's diet be supplemented with a variety of finely diced fruits and vegetables. Feeding a mixture of these plants ensures a wider variety of nutrients, and variations in texture to aid digestion.

Other greens or vegetables and fruit that an animal may eat include grapes, strawberries, raspberries, papayas, melons, apples, peaches, pears, orange-fleshed squashes, mangoes, pattypan squash, pumpkins, green beans, peas, maize (corn), carrots or their tops, beetroot, nasturtium, alfalfa (lucerne), celery, rosemary, oregano, basil, hibiscus, pansies, carnations and rose petals.^[8]

[edit] Poisonous and dangerous foods

Insects caught in the wild are not recommended, due to the increased risk of pesticide exposure and viruses. Fireflies and all other animals with bioluminescent chemicals^[9] are fatal to Bearded Dragons.

Avocado and Rhubarb and broccoli have been thought to be fatal to dragons.^{[citation needed]} Spinach contains high oxalates which bind to calcium and in large amounts can lead to metabolic bone disease. Kale and cabbage also contain oxalates, but the ability of oxalates to lower calcium absorption is relatively small and definitely does not outweigh the ability of oxalate-containing foods to contribute calcium to the meal plan. If a Bearded Dragon's digestive tract is healthy, and it receives adequate ultraviolet light and temperature, it will gain significant benefits including absorption of calcium from calcium-rich food plants that also contain oxalic acid.^{[citation needed]} Bearded Dragons also can not eat citrus fruits. .^{[citation needed]}. Bananas are not recommended for regular feeding to Bearded Dragons. This is because they're very high in phosphorous which will mess up your beardies calcium absorption. Once every great while is ok, but on a consistent basis they're a no-no...

[edit] Housing

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A 20-US-gallon (76 l; 17 imp gal) enclosure (30 inches (760 mm) long by {12 inches (300 mm) square in cross section) is ideal for a baby Bearded Dragon, but they will outgrow this within 3–4 months. When provided with the proper habitat, temperatures, and UVB lighting, young Bearded Dragons are capable of growing 1 inch (25.4 mm) or more per week. An adult needs a 40 gallon "Breeder" (36 inches (910 mm) long by 18 inches (460 mm) wide by 12 to 16 inches (300 to 410 mm) high) or larger, as these tanks provide the best floor space available. This is important, as Bearded Dragons are terrestrial lizards, and so tanks with a large floor space allow the Dragon room to turn around, lie down, and run around.

The Breeder style has much better floor space dimensions than similar volume tanks like the 40-US-gallon (150 l; 33 imp gal) "Long" or standard 55-US-gallon (210 l; 46 imp gal) tanks which, while 12 inches (300 mm) longer than the 30 US gallons (110 l; 25 imp gal), {40 US gallons (150 l; 33 imp gal) or 50 US gallons (190 l; 42 imp gal) Breeder tanks, are much narrower in width at 12 inches (300 mm) and 13 inches (330 mm) respectively. An enclosure with glass only at the front lowers the visibility of the world outside the vivarium, thus preventing over-curious animals from trying to escape, helping them remain satisfied with their enclosure which in turn helps prevent snout rub.

Bearded Dragons bask most of the day, absorbing the heat they need to digest their food. It is important that there are at least one or two good basking spots in the dragon's habitat. Rocks are preferable to logs as they hold heat better, though logs can also provide stimulation for the animal, which will use them for climbing^[3]. Any item taken from the outside must first be boiled or baked, however, to remove contaminants. Electric or battery powered heating devices such as electrically heated rocks can cause stomach burns if they malfunction, so they are not widely recommended.^[10] The habitat should also include something the dragon can hide under.

Substrate is another very important factor in keeping a healthy dragon. Babies and juveniles are particularly at risk of impaction and are often kept on paper towels or newspaper, as they are easy to dispose of and clean up after and there is no risk of the baby ingesting substrate. Tile is a popular choice; as is nonadhesive shelf liner. Reptile carpet shouldn't be used, because the dragon's nails can get stuck in the carpet which can cut off blood circulation, and leave the dragon without nails. As the animal gets older it can be put on finely-sifted play sand. Calcium sand is often used, but is also reported to be a cause of impaction due to 'clumping' in the gut if ingested^{[citation needed]}, while play sand will pass straight through a well-fed individual. Rabbit food pellets, made of alfalfa, are the recommended choice by most breeders as they are digestible and also easy to clean up. Walnut shells are another option; although they are natural, they cannot be digested and may cause impaction. Woodchips, or anything else of that sort must never be used. They are large, with sharp edges, and can be swallowed. They are not digestible, however, and will swell and clog the gut, causing a very painful and potentially fatal impaction.^[3]

[edit] Light and heat

Bearded Dragons also need proper lighting. An ultraviolet lamp is needed, with two options being available, Fluorescent lamps or Mercury-vapor lamps. These lamps have variable ranges of UVB output; owners must ensure the proper distance from the lamp to the basking spot so the lizard can properly absorb the rays. Lamps are typically replaced every six months. Heat rocks and pads are not recommended as dragons have few nerves on their underside and the heat can damage them without them realising.^[11]. Without adequate UVB, a Dragon will develop Metabolic Bone Disease and not eat as much. A Dragon needs between 12 and 14 hours of daylight; much less or more causes problems with their circadian rhythms and makes them lethargic and sick.^[5]

[edit] Handling

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A person handling a Bearded Dragon must make sure all of its body is being supported. It must not be held by its chest without extreme care, as it may make it difficult for the animal to breathe. The most comfortable position for the animal is lying down in the person's hand or on the person's chest. Miniature Bearded Dragons are very friendly as long as they have been handled since they were young. Many owners report an almost dog-like affection^{[citation needed]}.

[edit] Illnesses

Bearded Dragons are generally hardy, but are still susceptible to various illnesses. Common ailments include parasitic diseases, calcium deficiency, respiratory diseases and stomach impactions.

Insects, green foods and unclean conditions may cause parasites. Signs of parasites include runny droppings and a bad odor. Respiratory problems can arise from too much or too little heat. These are signified by mucus, raspy breathing with the mouth open, and blocked nasal passages. However, these can be corrected by improving housing conditions and administering antibiotics. Pregnant females may also suffer from egg binding, which can only be corrected by a vet.^[12]

[edit] References

[edit] External links

The Wikibook Animal Care has a page on the topic of Bearded Dragon

• Media related to Bearded Dragon in captivity at Wikimedia Commons
• Information related to Bearded Dragon in captivity from Wikispecies.
• bio.miami.edu/caresheet
• bearded-dragons.com/forum
• beardeddragon.org
• Bearded Dragon Care
• Online Bearded Dragon Community
• ZooReptiles' Bearded Dragon photos
• Comprehensive Acceptable List of Beardie Foods
• Care for your Bearded Dragon

bearded dragons rule!!!